Very fortunately I decided to book ahead of time, having had an inkling of the problems which lay ahead when I tried to book a room at Whitehorse for Sunday evening. Virtually very room in the Yukon is booked up. Not because of tourists, but because this is event season. They have three months of summer and do they use it. So Whitehorse has the World Fastball Championship starting tomorrow and continuing for the week. Fastball is a form of softball in which they throw the ball harder. 2000 women in Whitehorse and I cannot get a room!
In Watson Lake which is at the end of the Stewart Cassiar Highway, the road I have travelled up from Dempster and Bell2 on, they have an airshow tomorrow. So the Snowbirds are in town! Scully and Greyballs will know this, but for the rest of you, the Snowbirds are the Canadian Airforce Aerobatic team, somewhat like the Red Arrows. Red but without the Arrows. So with their support teams and all the other airforce personnel virtually every room in town is taken.

There are only two reasonable hotels in town and the Big Horn, which is where I am staying, is not one of them. But, I have the best room, the honeymoon suite complete with Jacuzzi and kitchenette. So her I am with a big horn and no honey!

This is a room to make Susan green with envy. A multi coloured floral bed spread direct from PEP, A wooden headboard/bookshelf complete with requisite mirror to watch action on the night in question. A chest of drawers from Calvinia’s Hantam Huis. A broken window pane. No toilet roll holder. A combined soap, shampoo and conditioner dispenser. It is right in the main road, presumably honeymoon couples do not hear anything other than themselves. On the positive side it has a fan and a great TV set.

But beggars can’t be choosers. with the size and number of Mosquitoes and bugs in this part of the world, camping other than in a huge RV, is not really an option. It reminds me of the story told by friends of my parents who were driving in Scotland when the weather turned unexpectedly and the encountered blizzards for much of the afternoon. Eventually they came across an hotel, not the one they had booked at. Exhausted they went in and inquired about a room. The manager informed them that only the honeymoon suite was available. The man said to him that given there age would it not be more appropriate for him to give this room to someone a bit younger and them a normal room. Quick as a flash the manager replied ” Sir, if I gave you the ballroom I would not expect you dance all night.

I will send pictures of this shit heap when I get to somewhere with a decent internet connection. This one is at the same standard as the hotel. In the hotels defense I think that 50 members of the Canadian Armed forces are all using the internet at the same time.

On a more positive note, today was the ride Bonnie and I have been waiting for. The weather was great. Sunny skies and the scenery spectacular. After a great night’s sleep, I did not repeat the mistakes of the previous day. Up early, packed, breakfast and on route by 08h00. Dressed up for the Arctic. Five layers meant I was as warm as bug in a rug.

I saw my first bears, three in total. The first walked past the restaurant during breakfast eliciting the same response as lions do when they walk past a camp in the bush. Everyone instantly up and at the windows. The other two were alongside the road. All Brown bears which are very small and shy. no pictures unfortunately. Then a number of eagles, almost identical to our fish eagles and some grey and white antelope. I will look up the name of these but help would be appreciated. The lakes more beautiful than anything I have seen to date.

The road was fair to average but nothing difficult by African Standards. Further than I calculated, mixing Km and Miles up I think. It made no difference as I was in no hurry, soaking up the riding and scenery. On the more testing stretches I stood. The different position was invigorating as it always is. The good old missionary position may be tried and tested, but once in a while standing is also great.

Last night over dinner I meet Kelly. We share a table. He is from Kentucky and has recently sold his business. A pool installation and maintenance business. I mentioned that there was a South African family who owned some race horse stud farms in Lexington, which is where his business was based. He knew the Beck’s and had done a number of pools for them. Small world. He is riding his bike for the next few months until he works out what he wants to do next. He also has a blog. Sound familiar?

As soon as I can get onto the Net properly I will look at it and forward the details. The night before, at the lodge, I am told that there was a South African who has been riding around the world for the past 24 months. I am also trying to get his details.

In Dease Lake I bump into a group of New Zealanders, about 23 in total, all riding. Half of them are ladies. Granny’s by the look of things or maybe being an All Black supporter ages you prematurely. We all talk and exchange road notes. I have lunch at Madame Z and meet the lady herself. She arrived in Dease Lake 7 years ago, husbandless and with 3 children. With CD 6500 in her pocket she started this business. Now she owns the property and appears to have a good business. A major new mine is being opened up nearby which wil employ 4500 people, no doubt adding to her clientele. The restaurant looked great and the food was even better. A complete surprise. She will be busy tonight as all the New Zealanders will be eating there on my recommendation. She undertakes to look at serving Miss Molly.

Most of the time I am completely alone. Once in a while the odd motorcycle or car passes me. Then a large group of motorcyclists with a support vehicle. Every so often an RV. These look like huge tourist buses but are in fact a self propelled mobile home with all the mod con’s, including a large car being towed behind.

Near French Creak I come across a lone cyclist who has stopped. I also stop to see if he needs help. earlier I had passed to woman also cycling. I cannot see the attraction of riding for these huge distances day after day. Anyhow Max is his name. He is Russian and has cycled from Siberia. He sleeps on the side of the road and his only concern was bears. We shake hands and go our own ways,more than likely never to meet again in this life!

Soon I am at Cassiar, after which the highway is named. Once a bustling mining town, it is now deserted with only a Jade shop. I stop for a free coffee. This is how they get you in. I look for something for the twins, but everything suitable will go straight in their mouths and the bigger stuff is too heavy. I buy some “happy bears” for their Granny.

Other than in the small towns en-route there is no sign of human life. Nearer to the Alaskan Highway I start seeing some cottages on the nicer lakes and then squatters! These are known in Canada as the First Nations and they are entitled to fish wherever they please, even in the reserves. This is what I am seeing as they are catching the salmon at the very best spots, which are normally protected.
A little bit further I pass the 5000 mile /8200 km mark of my trip. Bonnie and I are welded at the hip. I pat her and take photographs. Soon we are at the Alaska Highway. This will be our road for the next 900 miles before we hit Tok and turn down to Anchorage, a further 280 miles on, in four days time. Of these only three will be riding as we have Sunday off at Dawsons Peak, our next stop.

I have made dinner for myself in my kitchenette using some of my stock laid in for this eventuality. My washing is done and I am going to try and get some sleep. This will be difficult. It is hot and there in minimal ventilation. these buildings are designed to keep heat in, not out. The road is very noisy and to top it all off the main filling station is next door. I hope my earplugs and the Tabard work.
Good night and good luck.