Day 8
29/11/2017
The biggest day of the trip
510 km (151 km Dirt and 309 km on tar)
Malin Colorado to Estanza La Angostura
Knowing this was going to be a really challenging day we were up and off early, at about 07h30. Generally, the Brits don’t do early mornings, but with the sun up from around 04h00 we do!
The first part of the Careterra is very winding and poor surface but very beautiful. We make good progress and stop on the lake for coffee out of our Thermos’s. Unfortunately no biscuits allowed by the “sugar policeman” but some Finn Crisps and cheese slices help the gnawing in our stomachs. We have been working hard on the bikes and this chews up energy. I am at this point in the trip, seriously ketogenic and smell like a miner emerging from underground. But this is good for me. My mind is crystal clear as a result and I have lots of energy.
This shows why the lakes are so cold.
The road leading down to Lagos Buenos Aires. Snow from the Andes determines the temperature. We swam in this lake the previous day at Marlin Colorado. Men of Steel!
I have now been on the ketogenic diet for over a year as part of the fight against the cancer in my body. I have lost close on 15 Kgs. and my body is back to where it was 25 years ago. Initially I had to test my blood to determine my ketogenic state, but now using my body aroma, the speed with which people recoil from my breath and the smell of my urine I can determine my state quite accurately. Also, my mental clarity tells me a lot. When one is ketogenic the mind is a sharp as a razor blade.
The food in South America is reasonably conducive to my eating habits. Steak, Fish and salads form the core of the diet. No sweets and no sugar are not too difficult although I love Dulche de Leche the Argentinian staple and a form of Condensed Milk, but this is an atomic bomb to cancer. It is also Papas Country (Potatoes) in every form. Papas fritas – French Fries, Papas Natural – Boiled, Papas Pure – Mashed. I love all potatoes and have to refrain. Oddly enough we do not often see Sweet Potatoes.
The no alcohol is more difficult as nothing beats a beer at the end of a hard days riding and I cheat from time to time with half a glass and some red wine with dinner. By choice I am a wooded Chardonnay man. Chile is a good Chardonnay place, second only to Franschhoek. But red wine is better for me as it is lower in sugar and the resveratrol is highly recommended. This is not a big problem as I love Malbec and I am discovering Carmenere Reds out of Chile.
We cross the border at Chile Chico without major delays, but it is cold and the fire in the customs hall is welcome. Shortly before the border while stopped on a bridge to have a wee and take photos we are over taken by two Argentinians on BMW motorbikes. They are from Ushuaia which is where we are ultimately headed. ET and these riders converse in Spanish. They plan on getting there in two more days. We have 5 to go. Their bikes are hammered and they ride at high speed on the dirt. We do not see them again.
Back onto the tar and a quick stop at Los Antiguos for Espenades, Salads and Espresso’s is welcome. Then it is off to the Estanza. This is a typical Argentinian ranch. We have been advised to look for an airstrip on our right which will mark the turn off road to the ranch, which is still another 40 Km away. We see the Windsock on the right and turn off. The wind is howling. I would not like to be flying a light aircraft in these winds.
Tar soon turns to dirt complicated by the very strong winds. We battle on trying to stay upright – a foretaste of what of to come later in the trip. We find the turn off to the Estanza and take the narrow entry road in. This is another challenge – a farm road with strong crosswinds. Arriving at the Estanza the scenery unfolds in front of us. It is wide open wetlands with ducks and geese everywhere. Horses grazing and dogs running around. There is a travelling party of Germans in a Mercedes Truck/overland bus with small sleeping vaults in the back – so about 30 people can travel in and sleep anywhere, in private. They all seem happy and in true Deutche fashion are highly organized. Immediately after arrival everyone has an allocated job and they start. Chopping the salads, setting the tables and getting ready for the night. The Estanza cooks the Cordero – lamb which is splayed out on a cross like spit and then grilled around an open fire. Delicious.
Views of the Estanza. The gang finally arrive with the support vehicle.
We are allocated our rooms. We have to share. Four bachelors in one room boarding school style. Getting there first has advantages. We choose the beds and go for the two biggest, nearest the door. This is our room.
The bachelor’s bikes and shared room behind
Not the one below. Those rooms belong to the Germans!
Overlanding German Style. Each window is a room.
After a few beers, we have a shower and then it is dinner in the communal dining room, with the lamb cooking on the fire. Not a good part of the world to be a lamb! Tomorrow’s sacrifice is already hanging outside.
Dinner is delicious and devoured by everyone. I quickly calculate that this operation is highly profitable. Between plentiful motorbike tours and European backpack operations they are probably hosting between 40-60 people per evening at about $50 per head excluding beer and wine. So upwards of $3500 per night on minimal overheads. This is not a bad extra revenue source for farm in the middle of nowhere. Employment for a number of locals also in the middle of nowhere. I do love entrepreneurs. We are to meet another set of these a few days later, also in the middle of nowhere.
None of us last long and by the time I get to bed ET is kaput sleeping sitting up! My man of steel has finally buckled!!
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I am not far behind.
Good Night and Good Luck.
©Bigplatcool 2017
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